Wales Bonner, a graduate of Central Saint Martins still in her 20s, ascends not a moment too soon, as examples of shocking insensitivity to appearances of casual racism by elite Italian designers (products that evoke comparisons to blackface at Prada and Gucci, typically outrageous commentary about China from Dolce & Gabbana) have abounded in recent months Witches Do It Better shirt . With the whole world now watching, the industry is not so much in need of committees that focus on diversity and inclusion, but rather a complete reset of power to clear the way for bright new voices like that of Wales Bonner. Her show was presented at the Serpentine Gallery, where Wales Bonner has also curated a nerve-touching exhibition aptly called “A Time for New Dreams,” which traces her references and ideals through the lens of black writers and artists, like the poet Ishmael Reed and writer Ben Okri. Their works also appeared and were performed in her show, with Reed’s name etched on sporting jerseys and varsity jackets. The models, with only four looks shown on women and the rest worn by reed-thin young men, walked through the gallery looking slightly swallowed whole by their baggy chinos, rugby shirts, and too-big tweed jackets, neatly echoing the style of those writers in their prime.
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